Country & currency
The collection
Design your own
About us
Our craft
Your bag is empty
Explore the CollectionWomen’s garments at The Clothing Bureau are made by special order. Write to our concierge and tell us what you have in mind. We take your measurements with you, draft a pattern that belongs to you alone, and make the garment by hand in New York.
The shirtings in our workshop today. Choose one, and your shirt is cut from it.
Looking for a cloth you do not see here? Contact concierge
Giza 87 is a long-staple cotton that grows in one place, the Nile Delta, where the soil and the river do most of the work. The fibers are long and fine, which is why the thread spun from them is so even. Cotonificio Albini weaves it into a poplin for their Super Piumino collection, and it is the cloth we chose for our white sport shirt. It is smooth without being slippery, opaque enough to wear on its own, and slower to crease than an ordinary poplin. A white shirt gets worn more than any other. This is the one that holds up.
Thomas Mason has been weaving shirting since 1796, and this is one of their quieter cloths. The same Giza 87 Egyptian cotton, but woven on the diagonal, so the surface has a faint ridge you can see when the light moves across it. Twill carries a little more weight than poplin, 112 grams to the metre, and it drapes rather than stands. Under a jacket it lies flat and stays there. On its own, it reads as the dressier of our two whites. Soft on the first wear, softer on the fiftieth.
A white poplin from Cotonificio Albini with three percent elastane woven in. You do not see the stretch. You notice it when you reach forward, or sit through a long dinner, and the shirt moves with you and then returns to its shape. The surface is smooth and crisp, as a poplin should be. A good choice for a shirt cut close to the body. This cloth is offered through Bureau Bespoke.
Egyptian cotton woven on the diagonal, which is what gives a twill its faint ridge and its drape. This one is dense in the hand, with a low sheen that shows only when you move: navy in shadow, closer to ink under a lamp. It is dressier than a poplin and softer than an oxford, and it holds a dark color the way twill does, without going flat. We cut it as a sport shirt, with beveled cuffs, a beveled chest pocket and a shorter hem, for the hours after the jacket comes off.
A sky blue and white stripe, woven in Italy by Cotonificio Albini. At 93 grams it is one of the lightest cloths we cut, and it feels that way on the skin. The stripe is even and narrow, the kind that reads as a colour from a few feet away and only shows itself up close. We think of it as a summer cloth, but in a city it goes most of the year. Wear it with the sleeves rolled once in July, and under a navy jacket in October.
An oxford from Cotonificio Albini, in soft blue and white stripes of uneven width. Oxford is a basket weave, so the cloth has a grain you can feel between your fingers and a little more body than a poplin. The stripes change width as they cross the cloth, which keeps it from reading as a business stripe. It is the most relaxed shirting we cut, and it softens with every wash. This cloth is offered through Bureau Bespoke.
A blue and white stripe that has been in tailors' bunches for a hundred years, here in Giza 87 Egyptian cotton from Albini's Super Piumino collection. The long Delta fibers give the poplin a softer hand than most, and the colour holds after washing. It is a cloth that does not ask for attention and does not need it. Cut into a spread collar with mother-of-pearl buttons, it does the quiet work a good shirt is supposed to do.
White stripes on a deep blue ground, woven by Cotonificio Albini. From across a room it looks like a solid blue shirt. Across a table, the stripe appears. The poplin is soft and opaque and breathes well, 97 grams to the metre, so it sits comfortably through a full day and a dinner after. It is the stripe we reach for when the occasion is not quite formal and not quite casual, which is most occasions.
A dark gray ground with a fine white stripe, from Albini's Clio collection. Gray is not an obvious choice for a shirt, which is part of why we like it. It sits well next to a navy suit, next to black, next to a gray that does not quite match, and it does not fight with a tie. The poplin is light, 96 grams, and wears the same in January as in June. A cloth that looks better the closer you stand.
Sateen is woven so that more of the thread lies on the surface, which is what gives the cloth its sheen. In midnight blue the effect is subtle. Indoors, under warm light, the shirt looks close to black. Step outside and it turns blue. Egyptian cotton, spun fine, so the cloth is light in the hand and smooth against the skin. We cut it with a shirred back and royal blue mother-of-pearl buttons, and it is one of our Reserve pieces.
The blue of the sky twenty minutes after the sun has gone. Egyptian cotton in a sateen weave, smooth, with a low lustre and enough body to hang cleanly from the shoulder. It is a colour that sits between navy and gray and works with both, and in the evening it comes into its own. The buttons are silver gray mother-of-pearl, which pick up the sheen of the cloth without competing with it.
A gray that will not sit still. Under lamplight it warms toward brown; in daylight it cools toward blue. This is a superfine Egyptian cotton in a sateen weave, and the way the floating threads catch light is what makes the colour move. Light to medium in weight, with a hand closer to silk than to cotton. We have watched people take it to a window to decide what colour it is. It is both.
A pink softened with gray until it settles. Egyptian cotton sateen, smooth, with a low sheen that shows in daylight and disappears in the evening. It is a colour that suits more men than expect it to, particularly with charcoal, navy or a tan jacket. We finish it with golden brown mother-of-pearl buttons and offer it as a Reserve piece. Quiet at a distance, and a small pleasure up close.
BIOFUSION® is Albini's own blend of Supima, the American long-staple cotton, with a high-grade Upland cotton, grown organically on land the mill supervises itself. At 170 grams it is the heaviest shirting we cut, nearly twice the weight of our poplins, and it has the depth of colour that only a dense black cloth can carry. It is warm without being stiff and it takes a press beautifully. A shirt for fall, winter and early spring, and for evenings the rest of the year.
We use cookies to run the site, analyse traffic and, with your consent, show you relevant advertising. Your preferences are remembered across visits. Cookie Policy
Choose which cookies you allow. Strictly necessary cookies are always enabled
as they are required for the site to function.
Cookie Policy
Required for the website to function. Includes your shopping cart, checkout process, login sessions, security tokens, and fraud prevention. Cannot be disabled.
Help us understand how visitors use our site, including Shopify analytics, Google Analytics and Microsoft Clarity heatmaps and session recordings. Form fields are masked.
Enable personalised advertising and remarketing across other platforms. Includes Meta (Facebook & Instagram) Pixel, Google Ads, and similar tools that allow us to show relevant content to past visitors.
Remember your personal settings across visits. Includes recently viewed items, currency and region selection, wishlist, and display preferences that personalise your shopping experience.
Get the first access to stories from our New York headquarter.
Stay Connected.
Complete your profile
You will hear from us shortly.
Crafted with care — as always.
