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Explore the CollectionLightweight dress shirts with soft structural support at the collar, cuffs, and placket — sewn in, never glued. Designed and constructed in-house in New York
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Giza 87 is a long-staple cotton that grows in one place, the Nile Delta, where the soil and the river do most of the work. The fibers are long and fine, which is why the thread spun from them is so even. Cotonificio Albini weaves it into a poplin for their Super Piumino collection, and it is the cloth we chose for our white sport shirt. It is smooth without being slippery, opaque enough to wear on its own, and slower to crease than an ordinary poplin. A white shirt gets worn more than any other. This is the one that holds up.
Thomas Mason has been weaving shirting since 1796, and this is one of their quieter cloths. The same Giza 87 Egyptian cotton, but woven on the diagonal, so the surface has a faint ridge you can see when the light moves across it. Twill carries a little more weight than poplin, 112 grams to the metre, and it drapes rather than stands. Under a jacket it lies flat and stays there. On its own, it reads as the dressier of our two whites. Soft on the first wear, softer on the fiftieth.
A sky blue and white stripe, woven in Italy by Cotonificio Albini. At 93 grams it is one of the lightest cloths we cut, and it feels that way on the skin. The stripe is even and narrow, the kind that reads as a colour from a few feet away and only shows itself up close. We think of it as a summer cloth, but in a city it goes most of the year. Wear it with the sleeves rolled once in July, and under a navy jacket in October.
A blue and white stripe that has been in tailors' bunches for a hundred years, here in Giza 87 Egyptian cotton from Albini's Super Piumino collection. The long Delta fibers give the poplin a softer hand than most, and the colour holds after washing. It is a cloth that does not ask for attention and does not need it. Cut into a spread collar with mother-of-pearl buttons, it does the quiet work a good shirt is supposed to do.
White stripes on a deep blue ground, woven by Cotonificio Albini. From across a room it looks like a solid blue shirt. Across a table, the stripe appears. The poplin is soft and opaque and breathes well, 97 grams to the metre, so it sits comfortably through a full day and a dinner after. It is the stripe we reach for when the occasion is not quite formal and not quite casual, which is most occasions.
A dark gray ground with a fine white stripe, from Albini's Clio collection. Gray is not an obvious choice for a shirt, which is part of why we like it. It sits well next to a navy suit, next to black, next to a gray that does not quite match, and it does not fight with a tie. The poplin is light, 96 grams, and wears the same in January as in June. A cloth that looks better the closer you stand.
Sateen is woven so that more of the thread lies on the surface, which is what gives the cloth its sheen. In midnight blue the effect is subtle. Indoors, under warm light, the shirt looks close to black. Step outside and it turns blue. Egyptian cotton, spun fine, so the cloth is light in the hand and smooth against the skin. We cut it with a shirred back and royal blue mother-of-pearl buttons, and it is one of our Reserve pieces.
The blue of the sky twenty minutes after the sun has gone. Egyptian cotton in a sateen weave, smooth, with a low lustre and enough body to hang cleanly from the shoulder. It is a colour that sits between navy and gray and works with both, and in the evening it comes into its own. The buttons are silver gray mother-of-pearl, which pick up the sheen of the cloth without competing with it.
A gray that will not sit still. Under lamplight it warms toward brown; in daylight it cools toward blue. This is a superfine Egyptian cotton in a sateen weave, and the way the floating threads catch light is what makes the colour move. Light to medium in weight, with a hand closer to silk than to cotton. We have watched people take it to a window to decide what colour it is. It is both.
A pink softened with gray until it settles. Egyptian cotton sateen, smooth, with a low sheen that shows in daylight and disappears in the evening. It is a colour that suits more men than expect it to, particularly with charcoal, navy or a tan jacket. We finish it with golden brown mother-of-pearl buttons and offer it as a Reserve piece. Quiet at a distance, and a small pleasure up close.
BIOFUSION® is Albini's own blend of Supima, the American long-staple cotton, with a high-grade Upland cotton, grown organically on land the mill supervises itself. At 170 grams it is the heaviest shirting we cut, nearly twice the weight of our poplins, and it has the depth of colour that only a dense black cloth can carry. It is warm without being stiff and it takes a press beautifully. A shirt for fall, winter and early spring, and for evenings the rest of the year.
There is a certain romance to a suit made by hand. Its canvas is padded stitch by stitch, its lapels rolled to break softly, each buttonhole sewn in silk thread. Mother-of-Pearl buttons, pick stitching along every edge, sleeve vents that truly open — details you feel every time you put it on.
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The full creative latitude of our atelier, placed entirely in your hands. Every detail — collar, cloth, cuff, placket — chosen by you from an extensive selection curated by our designers.
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